The hills above Verona are home to a network of windy roads taking you past the terraced rows of vines elevated by the Veronese pergola system. Rocky white precipices project the limestone rock sitting close to the clay surface, lending that chalky mineral perfume to the best wines. These intensely planted hillsides produce the various styles of Valpolicella. 7ha of this belongs to the legendary Quintarelli estate.
A family winery made famous by the efforts of Giuseppe Quintarelli. A leader in the region, broadcasting to the world the undeniable quality of the top wines from, here. His only ambition – to raise the quality of the region and leave behind the difficult times of low prices endured by his grandparents in the 1930s. Living at the winery, Giuseppe and his family worked hard to prove that the traditionally dried wines of Valpolicella had the ability to compete with the best on the world stage.
Summers at Quintarelli saw the 9 grandchildren running round the vines, helping in true Italian style. With the generational shift in 2010, Giuseppe’s daughter Franca took over, moving into the house with her family. There followed a renovation of the house and winery with a new cellar underground extending the original one. Quintarelli’s wines are aged for a number of years prior to release, 7 years for the Amarones, 6 for the Valpolicella. The cellars are home to huge oval Slavonian oak foudres, enhanced by carvings illustrating the family history and winemaking process. The biggest barrel of 12000 litres is carved in honour of Giuseppe and illustrates the family values of religion and work. A second foudre of 5,300 litres stands ode to Franca Giuseppe’s wife. The carving shows four birds in a nest representing their children.
Recioto is the father of Amarone, the first wine of the region to use dried grapes in fermentation in the 1930s. An accidental refermentation of the skins produced the first example of what is now known as Amarone. The grapes are dried in special rooms with the shoulders or the ears as locally known saved for the Recioto. Oriot means ear in Italian. 6 months drying for Recioto, 4 for Amarone. The winemaking at Quintarelli has been overseen by Ricardo Ferralini for many years.
The tasting room, deep in the bowels of the cellar immediately calms. A combination of history and respect are driven by the barrel lined walls, broken with a photo of Giuseppe and Ricardo above a quote in Italian, translated as ‘Tradition that stands the test of time’.
Francesco gathered glasses and slowly took me through the wines. In the past each label was handwritten, by friend and original owner of the 12 Apostles restaurant in Verona. After 12 years Giuseppe’s daughter Sylvia mastered the script and took over the detail. Now they are printed, but dedicated labels written by Francesco’s mother are available for special occasions.
Each wine is unique, they do however all share the distinctive finesse and elegance of this property. Perhaps it was the effect of the room, the wines carried a mystical quality dancing over the enduring persistence on the palate.
*Harriet’s tasting notes are below. Our full offer can be requested by emailing sales@tindalwine.com
