How sustainable are your summer wines?

In a restaurant the other day, I heard someone ask what reds were available by the glass. The stock answer came back from the helpful waitress. “Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz…”

When are we going to move away from the ‘International’ varieties and recognise that at the lower levels there is far more value to be found with indigenous varieties. Notwithstanding the sustainable element. Planting varieties in an area where they have no history generally means they struggle with one or more of the elements. Drought is the most obvious.

We are all more ‘sustainably’ aware. But what does that mean? Dig deeper and you may find that your understanding and associated buying pattern is far from sustainable. Cast your eyes over these questions and see how you do:

  • Would you pick an organic wine over one with a recognised sustainable certification such as the French HVE?
  • Are you happier selecting wines with names you recognise, or do you experiment regularly?
  • Do you regularly buy wines under 15 euro retail?
  • Does the weight of a bottle come into consideration when you buy a wine?
  • Would you discount a Grenache / Garnacha/ Shiraz if it had over 14% alcohol?

Mainly yes’ ? Don’t feel bad, most wine drinkers will be in this category. What we don’t realise is that sustainability doesn’t just apply to the vineyards. Actions in the winery, packaging and consumer buying habits all form part of the chain. Let’s look at the questions.

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Musings from the Mosel

*This blog is a step away from the norm; Abstract, some could say erring on the arty..!

Early October 2022, from a steep slope in the Mosel Valley..

The light shimmers thought the vines on the precipitous slopes catching bunches of iridescent grapes hanging closed tightly around shoots, bursting with expectant flavour, waiting. Snip, sudden, direct and successful. That year’s fruit plucked and taken to tell the tale of the vintage. The warm start, the frost, the drought, the rain, some rot….

Standing in the Oely vineyard where vines have stood for over 100 years, pre phylloxera, pre wars. Waiting, standing, providing. There’s an holistic element to a vineyard. The silence, the birds, the unspoken promise of fermented fruit. No phones, just secateurs and the gentle shushed tones of your fellow pickers. Silence, stop. Meditation for the mind.

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What has ‘Ali’ Goté?

Described by Jancis Robinson MW in her Wine Grapes book as Burgundy’s tart ‘other’ white wine grape

With global warming Aligoté is less ‘tart’, more ‘tempting’. Five years ago we had just one Aligote on our list. This year we will have at least four if not five examples of this less well-known Burgundian grape variety. It’s not like we’ve actively been hunting down examples of this grape, more that excellent examples have jumped up and down in the sample glass, demanding attention thanks to their exceptional quality.

With pricing only going one way for Burgundian Chardonnay, those who enjoy the mineral led styles would do well to read on Learn more “What has ‘Ali’ Goté?”

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